愛與溫暖：我所瞥見的白冷會（三）｜Love and Warmth: A Glimpse into Societas Missionaria de Bethlehem (III)
三、中興崗哨的午餐時光
3. Lunch Time at Zhongxin Sentinel
參觀完關山天主堂後，驅車前往中興崗哨吃關山便當。
After visiting Church of Our Lady in Guanshan, we drove to Zhongxin Sentinel to have Guanshan lunchboxes.
藍天白雲、徐風吹拂，清澈的兩條溪水與河床橫亙，形成一條天然的交界。原本中興崗哨的軍宿舍變為部落市集，成為旅遊景點，同時也是鐵道迷景點。一輛輛火車沿著鐵軌在鸞山、鹿野溪和卑南溪中行徑。陽光灑落在大樹陰影下，照映在印有關山火車的紙盒上。便當的米軟硬適中，香氣撲鼻而來。飯的上層鋪滿兩大塊肉片、豆干、香腸、高麗菜、菜脯、油條和半顆滷蛋。菜色油而不膩，很好吃。最感到意外的是，便當裡有油條。小ㄒ吃到時問我這是什麼菜，一開始我以為是炸天婦羅或燒賣之類的菜色。一咬下去才發現竟是油條，且其味道不因其他菜色混雜而軟掉，還保有油條的脆度和口感，這算是對臺東白冷會之行的食物記憶之一吧！吃飽飯足，小ㄒ和我到河堤旁邊散步，看見宗呈葛格和一群同學正在講解中興崗哨、鐵道和溪流河床間的歷史，遇見朋友們也在四處走走，看到同行的胡昌智老師正在河床中間探險，深感佩服老師體力之好。一旁的樹和花朵隨風飄曳，好生漂亮，將這一切盡收眼底。
The blue sky was clear with some white clouds, and the breeze blew gently. Two clear streams and riverbeds intersected, forming a natural boundary. The former military dormitories of Zhongxin Sentinel had been transformed into a tribal market and become a tourist attraction and a favorite spot for railfans. Trains passed through the tracks along Luanshan, Luye River, and Beinan River. Sunlight sprayed on the shadows of big trees and fell on the paper box printed with the image of the Guanshan Train. The rice had just the right texture, with a delightful aroma wafting up. On top of the rice were two large slices of meat, dried tofu, sausage, cabbage, dried radish, Chinese fried dough, and half a braised egg. The dishes were oily but not greasy and very delicious. What surprised us the most was the fried dough in the lunchbox. When Xiao Si tasted it, she asked me what it was. At first, I thought it might be tempura or something similar. Upon taking a bite, I realized it was actually fried dough. Despite being mixed with other dishes, it didn’t become soggy but retained its crispiness and texture. This was one of my food memories of the SMB field survey! After enjoying a satisfying meal, Xiao Si and I took a stroll by the riverbank. We saw teaching assistant Zong-Cheng explaining the history of Zhongxin Sentinel, the railway, and the riverbeds. We also ran into friends wandering around. We spotted our professor, Chang-Zhi Hu, exploring the riverbed, and we were deeply impressed by his stamina. The trees and flowers swayed gracefully in the breeze. What a sight to behold it was! We captured all of this beauty in our eyes.
誰曾想過5、60年前的中興崗哨，是守護鹿野站到山里站間「鹿野溪橋」的軍用崗哨？但隨1982年鐵道橋樑改線，閒置至今，卻在這段時間一直是鐵道迷口耳相傳的祕密景點，直至2022年又以「旅遊驛站」身分重回大眾視野。彷彿被多數人遺忘的記憶般，靠著少數人的口耳相傳，將這段迷失在大山與溪水間的記憶，某日重現在眾人的回憶中。
Who would have thought that five or six decades ago, Zhongxin Sentinel had served as a military sentry, guarding the Luye River Bridge between Luye Station and Shanli Station? However, with the rerouting of the railway bridge in 1982, it has remained abandoned ever since. During this time, it has been a secret spot passed down by word of mouth among railfans. Until 2022, it returned to the public’s eye as a tourist station. It is like a forgotten memory that relies on the word of mouth of a few, nestled between mountains and rivers, and reappeared one day in the reminiscences of many.
圖10、好吃的關山便當／陳嬿亘拍攝｜
Figure 10. The delicious Guanshan lunchbox / Photographed by Yan-Xuan Chen
圖11、關山便當的塗鴉／陳嬿亘繪製｜
Figure 11. A drawing of Guanshan lunchbox / Drawn by Yan-Xuan Chen
圖12、左邊黑色人群（紅色圓圈標示處）是洪宗呈學長為大家講解中興崗哨歷史，而中間正在溯溪的小黑人（藍色方框標示處）為胡昌智老師／陳嬿亘繪製｜
Figure 12. The group of people on the left (marked by the red circle) included Senior Zong-Cheng Hong, who was explaining the history of Zhongxin Sentinel to everyone, while the people in the middle tracing the stream (marked by the blue square) was Professor Chang-Zhi Hu. / Drawn by Yan-Xuan Chen
原文刊登於《人社東華》，第37期(2023)。經授權後翻譯轉載。｜
The original article was published in Dong Hwa Journal of Humanities and Social Sciences, vol. 37, 2023, and has been translated and reprinted on DUET with permission.
作者｜Author：華文文學系 陳嬿亘｜Yan-Xuan Chen, Department of Sinophone Literatures
譯者｜Translator：英美語文學系 吳伃雯｜Stella Wu, Department of English