「踏溯吉安」:歷史踏察|“A Stroll at Ji’an”: Visits to the History

1. 吉野石羊的由來

1. The Stone Sheep at Yoshino Village

  近年單車的七星潭到鯉魚潭的雙潭之旅,已成為很多單車客來花蓮的經典行程,其中經過化仁海堤這段,可以在海堤旁的的草皮上,看到吉野移民村郵便局的石雕,以及令人印象深刻的八隻綿羊石雕-吉野石羊。作為歷史文化記憶的吉野村石雕還好理解,但海邊的這八隻綿羊不僅令人好奇是怎樣的發想呢?

  In recent years, the cycling route from Qixingtan Beach to Li-yu Lake has become a must-go itinerary for cyclists. On this route, in the section of Hua-jen Embankment, we can find the stone carving of the post office of Yoshino Immigrant Village and the eight impressive stone carvings of sheep—Yoshino Stone Sheep. The stone carvings of Yoshino Village are understandably memorials of culture and history, but what about the eight stone sheep on the coast?

  根據水利署第九河川局電子報以及中廣新聞採訪九河局局長的報導中,可以得知這是2016年九河局在進行化仁海堤的治水計畫時,為了讓冰冷的公共工程多一些溫度,特別找了藝術家設置這些公共藝術,讓海堤可以增添觀光與休閒的價值。當時九河局的局長甚至希望可以加上羊叫聲,讓遊客經過時更增添一些樂趣呢。

  According to the digital newspaper of The 9th River Management Office, Water Resources Agency, and the interview of the director of The 9th River Management Office in the report of Broadcasting Corporation of China News, we can learn that these stone sheep are public art. During the progress of the Hua-jen Coast Improvement Project, the office invited artists to produce public art to add some vigor to the cold public construction and improve the value of sightseeing and leisure on the coast. At that time, the director even wished to make the sheep have some baaing sounds so that tourists might have fun when they were around the sheep.

  近年來許多公共工程都有融入公共藝術的設計,這不僅是承辦單位的創意,其實也是「公共藝術設置辦法」法規明訂的要求唷。公有建築或重大公共工程建設時,都會提撥部分經費並成立公共藝術設置執行小組,規畫並設置公共藝術作品。花蓮十多年來的石雕藝術發展,已成為在地的文化及產業特色,在化仁海堤旁有這樣的公共藝術作品並不意外,能融入在地歷史文化特色及創意,更是值得肯定與鼓勵。

  These years, many public constructions have the design of public art. The design not only reveals the creativity of the construction organizer, but also complies with the Regulations on the Installation of Public Art. To plan and carry out public art, the organizer has to appropriate a part of the fund and establish a public art installation team for public buildings or major public construction. The stone carving art in Hualien has become a local cultural and industrial feature for over ten years. It’s no surprise that there are public artworks along the Hua-jen Coast. It’s also worthy of recognition and encouragement to mix local historical and cultural features with the creativity of public art.

  下次來到這裡時,不妨多留意一下,除了吉野郵便局與吉野石羊以外,是否還有其他有特色的石雕唷!

  When you visit here, you may pay some attention to the other special stone carvings in addition to those for the post office and the stone sheep of Yoshino.


2. 吉安鄉慶豐村(宮前)的日本移民家屋分布

2. The Distribution of Japanese Immigrant Houses in Qingfeng Village (Miyamae), Ji’an

  這張圖是戰後灣生日本人憑記憶描繪出來的「宮前地域屋敷配置圖」,對於了解日治後期移民村的聚落空間以及建物的配置非常重要,也廣泛的運用到相關的出版品、導覽摺頁中。可惜多數的文宣對於這張配置圖都沒有什麼描述,2002年出版吉安鄉志也僅是將此圖當作史料圖像使用,沒有任何解釋。

  “The house layout of the Miyamae Area” is drawn from memory of the Wansei (Taiwanese-born Japanese during the Japanese imperial rule in Taiwan). This picture is very important for learning about the layout of spaces and buildings of immigrant villages in the late period of Japanese colonization. It is also widely used in related publications and tour brochures. It’s a pity that most of the documents have no captions. Even in the Ji’an Township Chronicle, published in 2002, the picture was used only as a historical image without any description.

  那要怎樣來解讀這張圖呢?小編提供一些方法給各位參考:

  Then, how to interpret this picture? Here are some tips for you:

  (1) 首先來看看這是誰畫的,以及對該圖的相關註記,在圖面的左側有標示這張圖是中島恆夫、松本秋男、中島泰二這三位製作(他們的姓氏也都有出現在圖中的住家中,看來應該是這邊早期的居民)。而該圖是由堀工吉治Layout成圖的。下方也有註記說明,這圖是憑記憶所描繪的,記述上若有錯誤請見諒。

  First, you may take a look at the authors and the annotations. On the left side of the map, you can find that the map was made by Tsueno Nakajima, Akio Matsumoto, and Taiji Nakajima (it seems that they were residents in this area since their last names also appear on the houses on the map), and the layout was designed by Kichiji Horiku. The annotation below also reveals that the map was made from memory and the authors asked for pardon for any mistakes.

  (2) 接下來看一這張圖的索引資料,中間有張小的索引圖,標示北方、主要道路以及A、B、C、D四個聚落的相對位置。圖面正中央的A是最大的聚落,也是吉野神社的所在地,另外左側有B聚落、右方有C、D聚落,分別是宮前的分支聚落。可推測應該是移民村這種折衷型集村在聚落發展後期延伸出來的的分支聚落。

  Next, check the index of the map. In the middle, there is a small index that marks the north, the main streets, and the relative position of settlements A, B, C, and D. Settlement A in the center of the map is the biggest one and is the location of the Yoshino Shrine. On the left side is Settlement B and on the right are Settlement C and Settlement D that are branches of Miyamae Settlement. It can be speculated that these settlements are branch settlements in the later stage of development of eclectic settlements like immigrant villages.

  (3) 若進一步透過地圖(1945美軍空拍、戰後各版本地形圖),村里界來對照,雖然這些聚落在日治後期都是在吉野村境內,但戰後僅有A、B是在慶豐村,D則位於勝安村、C在吉安村。並非所有的聚落都是在慶豐村唷!

  Then, if you compare the boundaries of the villages on it with those on other maps, such as aerial images taken by the US army in 1945 or different versions of the topographic photos after WWII, you will find that these settlements all belong to Yoshino Village in the late period of Japanese colonization. However, after WWII, only Settlement A and Settlement B have been at Qingfeng Village. Settlement D belongs to Sheng-an Village, and C to Ji’an Village. Not all of them are at Qingfeng Village.

  (4) 接下來可以比對道路、街廓的配置,在A聚落有個十字型的主要道路,被稱為五間道路。五間相當於30尺,換算公制就是9.09公尺,是說明當時道路的路寬。這十字形主要道路,南北向的就是現在的吉安路二段,東西向的就是中山路三段。

  Fourth, you can compare the configuration of roads and blocks. A main crossroad called “Five Ken Road” can be found in Settlement A. The name “five ken” is about the width of the road, and a “ken” is a unit of length. Five “ken” is about 9.09 meters, so the road is 9.09 meters wide. The north-south direction of the cross-shaped main road is the second section of Ji’an Road and the east-west direction of it is the third section of Zhongshan Road today.

  (5) 最後,可以來看看配置圖中的一些公共設施,除了最明顯的神社之外,還可以看到地神、菸草乾燥室、共同浴場、購買部、青年會館、儲水槽等位置。若瞭解當時的村長姓氏(西村),也可以知道村長家的所在地。透過這些比對,都可以確認這些機關、建物的現況位置,例如青年會館就是現在的銀髮樂活館、地神所在位置已成為慶天宮等。

  Finally, let’s check some public facilities on the map. In addition to the most obvious Shrine, the Land God, a tobacco drying room, a public bath, a grocery store, a youth hall, and a water storage tank can be found. If you know the last name of the chief of the village (Nishimura), you can find where the chief lived. By comparing the configuration now and then, we can learn what those facilities become now. For example, the youth hall is now the senior activity hall and the Land God is now Qing-tian Temple, etc.

  大家也許會好奇,那麼以前的公共浴場現在是做什麼用途呢?這裡就賣個關子,哪天有機會現地導覽時,小編再告訴各位囉!

  You may be curious about the use of the public bath now. I’ll leave it for the live tour guide in the future.


3. 慶豐村的人口、族群與地名概述

3. An Overview of the Population, Ethnic Groups, and Place Names of Qingfeng Village

  慶豐村北以吉安溪鄰勝安、永安、太昌村,南以慶南五街接中園排水溝鄰吉安村,東南一小隅以中園排水溝鄰宜昌村。根據111年的戶口統計資料,慶豐村有3077戶,人口有7836人,其中男性3934人,女性3902人。慶豐村在清朝時期為七腳川社原住民居住之活動區城,日治移民村時期,稱為「宮前」,取其日本人的神社所在地而得名。民國37年(1948)改稱今名。

  Qingfeng Village is adjacent to Sheng’an, Yong’an, and Taichang Villages with Ji’an River in the north, to Ji’an Village with Zhongyuan Drainage Ditch to Qingnan Fifth Street in the south, and to Yichang Village with Zhongyuan Drainage Ditch in a small corner in the southeast. According to the household registration statistics in 2022, there were 3,077 households at Qingfeng Village with a population of 7,836, including 3,934 males and 3,902 females. During the Qing Dynasty, Qingfeng Village was the area where the indigenous people of the Cikasuan tribe lived. During the Japanese colonial period, it was called “Miyamae,” which was named after the location of the Japanese shrine. It was renamed to its present name in 1948.

  根據2002年吉安鄉志的記載,該村居民來自各地,所以姓氏混雜,以前閩、客、原住民各估三分之一,現今閩、客族群人口較多,原住民較少約佔本村人口的14%,客家人大多從新竹、苗栗而來,早期以農業為主,目前職業別較為多元。因距花蓮市近,人口外流情形少,從過去10年的人口數據來看,雖然近年人口略為下降,但10年來仍是吉安鄉人口成長最多的村,也是唯一人口成長超過500人的村里。本村的信仰以道教為主,大多祭拜王母娘娘,原住民族群每年都有豐年祭典。

  According to the record in Ji’an Township Chronicle (2002), residents of the village came from all over the world, so the surnames were mixed. In the past, each of the three peoples, Hoklo people, Hakka people, and indigenous people, accounted for one-third. Today, the population of Hoklo and Hakka peoples is relatively large, and the indigenous people account for about 14% of the population of the village. Most of the Hakkas come from Hsinchu and Miaoli. In the early days, agriculture was the mainstay, but now the occupations are more diverse. Because Qingfeng is close to Hualien City, there is less population outflow. According to the population data of the past 10 years, although the population has declined slightly in recent years, Qingfeng is still the village with the largest population growth at Ji’an in the past 10 years, and it is also the only village with a population growth of more than 500 people. The belief in this village is mainly Taoism, and most of them worship the Queen Mother of the West. The indigenous ethnic group holds a harvest festival every year.

 
 

  從慶豐村的人口金字塔,可以看出青壯人口跟學齡人口較少,但20幾歲的年齡層較為突出,且0-4歲的人數也比5-9歲及10-14歲為多,此人口結構呈現的意涵值得進一步探討......

  From the population pyramid of Qingfeng Village, we can see that the young and middle-aged population and the school-age population are relatively small, but the age group in the 20s is more prominent, and the number of people aged 0-4 is more than that of people aged 5-9 and 10-14. The implication of this demographic structure requires further investigation….


文字與圖片轉載自郭俊麟,「踏溯吉安」Facebook社團|Texts and pictures are by Chun-lin Kuo, from the Facebook group “A Stroll at Ji’an”
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1251508029092820

譯者|Translator:英美語文學系 吳伃雯|Stella Wu, Department of English

「踏溯吉安」:貼文精選(一)|“A Stroll at Ji’an”: Featured Posts I

1. 吉安桐花小旅行

1. A Tung Blossom excursion at Ji’an

  每年4-5月間,正逢農作休閒期間,也是年度桐花盛開季節,配合桐花盛開,以崇祖感恩之心,將客家人重視山林與土地的精神,藉由活動與祭祀的方式,辦理桐花祭活動。吉安鄉的桐花主要在花蓮林區南華工作站,園區內近百株桐花樹,每年四月份左右開始盛開,在春夏交替之際就可以看到數百株桐花綻放,形成美麗五月雪景象,賞桐之旅即成為每年3至5月最熱門的旅遊行程之一。而雪白景象令人陶醉在花雨之中,也是吉安鄉春季的一大盛事。

  Between April and May, it is the fallow period and the annual Tung blossom season. Through various activities and ancestor worship at the time of the blooming of Tung flowers, people hold Tung Blossom Festival to commemorate and venerate the spirits of deceased ancestors and to demonstrate the Hakka spirit of valuing forests, mountains, and land. The Tung flowers at Ji’an are located mainly at Nanhua Workstation in Hualien Forest District. Nearly a hundred Tung Trees start to blossom in April. The blossom of hundreds of Tung flowers between spring and summer forms a beautiful scene of snow in May. Thus, an excursion to enjoy the sight of Tung flowers from March to May becomes one of the most popular travel itineraries. In addition, the snow-white scene is intoxicating; the fallen flowers, like rain contribute to a big event at Ji’an in spring.

  2023年的「桐遊吉安風情-踏尋故事開始的秘境」即將於三月底正式開始。故事就從桐花紛飛開始,今年桐花小旅行從南華森林園區為起點,由專業導遊帶路,走入初音山下的過往風華,因為有著豐沛水力資源,吉安從日治時期即是稻米農作的重要產區,至今潺潺水圳可見當年繁榮景象。興盛的水稻文化,勾勒出富饒農村景象,也帶動水牛研究,因此至今仍保留相當難得的水牛完整基因密碼。初音山的故事還有一段歷經八十多年的種畜繁殖場,吉安有一座馬場,而且是極具歷史價值的種畜繁殖研究單位,不僅如此,種畜場宿舍群依然保存著日式生活樣貌,娓娓道來這一段故事,原來吉安深藏著諸多精彩,等著我們一一發掘。

  “Traveling Together to the Tung Blossom at Ji’an and Looking for the Local Customs: Visiting the Secret Place for the Beginning of the Story” in 2023 will commence at the end of March. The story starts with Tung flowers flying in the air. The Tung blossom excursion this year begins from the Nanhua Forest District. Professional tour guides will lead you down to the glorious past of Chuying Mountain. Because of its abundant water resources, Ji’an has been an important area for rice production, and today you can imagine the prosperous past from the system of canals and irrigation ditches. The thriving culture of rice growing outlines the rich rural scene and brings about research on water buffalos. Thus, a complete, rare genetic code of water buffalos is still preserved at this place. The stories of Chuying Mountain also include that of an animal propagation station that has existed for more than eighty years. The stud farm at Ji’an is a research unit for animal propagation that has great historical value. In addition, the dorms at the animal propagation station still retain the appearances of the Japanese lifestyle and tell us a story. Apparently, a lot of amazement still lies deeply at Ji’an and waits for us to discover one by one.


2. 吉野村的森本咖啡園

2. Morimoto Coffee Farm at Yoshino Village

  打開移民村時代吉野村的相片,看到的大多是水稻田、蔗田、菸草作物的景觀,然而台大數位典藏資料庫中,卻看到有標記著「花蓮港廳吉野村宮前山腳地四年生咖啡」及「森本元三郎氏農場咖啡」的照片。出處是總督府殖產局,1929年的影像。

  Opening the photo album of Yoshino Village during the period of the Japanese immigration villages, you can see mostly the view of the farms of rice, sugarcane, and tobacco. However, in National Taiwan University digital archives, we can see the pictures marked with “The quadrennial coffee from Miyamae Mountain Foot, Yoshino Village, Karenkō Prefecture” and “The coffee from the farm of Mr. Motosaburo Morimoto.” They originated from the photos of the Bureau of Productive Industries, Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan, in 1929.

  從上述的資訊已經可以得知,這個咖啡園應該就在宮前聚落,今日的慶豐村及太昌村附近,從灣生日本人戰後繪製的住宅地圖,可看到宮前聚落中確實有森本這姓氏的住家,位在今日吉安國中附近。而照片中的山腳旁的咖啡,透過歷史航拍及山勢地景的比對,推測有可能是在今日中山路四段的盡頭,太昌村日光步道入口附近。

  From the information mentioned above, we can learn that this coffee farm might be based at the Miyamae Settlement, which is near the Qingfeng Village and Taichang Village nowadays. From the residential map drawn by the Wansei (Taiwanese-born Japanese during the Japanese imperial rule in Taiwan) after the WWII, we can see that people whose surname was Morimoto took up residence in the Miyamae Settlement, located near the Ji’an Junior High School nowadays. Moreover, by comparing the historical aerial photographs and the mountain ranges and the landscape, the coffee farm beside the mountain foot in the photo might be at the end of Sec. 4, Zhongshan Rd. nowadays, around the entrance of the Nikko trail at Taichang Village.

 
 

  數十年過去,吉安鄉也快速的都市化發展,農作品除了稻米之外,也多了韭菜、龍鬚菜、芋頭的招牌農特產。不知道當年吉野村生產的咖啡味道如何?是否還有機會在吉安鄉見到在地種植的咖啡豆呢?

  As the decades passed, Ji’an was also affected by the rapid development of urbanization. In addition to rice, Chinese leeks, the gracilaria, and taros were all became the signature produce. How was the smell of the coffee produced at Yoshino Village at that time? Do we still have the chance to see coffee beans being planted once again at Ji’an?


3. 吉野牧場_從騎牛改乘馬

3. Yoshino Farm: from bull riding to horse riding

  根據2002年吉安鄉志的記載:吉安鄉的畜牧業始於大正九年(1920),吉野村産業組合在此開設「吉野牧場」。牧場面積三五九甲,專責牛隻的培育繁殖,當時牧有牛隻407頭。爾後又創立「臺灣總督府花蓮港種馬所」,將當時臺灣東部的畜牧生產資源及人力全部投入,專為生產軍用馬匹。光復後,政府將「種馬所」改為「種畜場」,從事豬、牛、雞等民生物資生產。1976年花蓮區農業改良場畜牧課,撥屬台灣省畜產試驗所,正式改稱為「台灣省畜產試驗所花蓮種畜繁殖場」。時值今日,歷經多次改组的花蓮種畜繁殖場,仍以其專業知識,持續推廣家畜家禽的繁殖,及飼養與育種改良等工作,以利地方畜牧業的發展。

  According to the annals of Ji’an in 2002, the animal husbandry at Ji’an started in the ninth year of the Taishō era (1920), and the industry group at Yoshino Village established the “Yoshino Farm” here. The farm, set in 345 hectares, was responsible for the breeding of cattle. There were 407 cows and bulls at that time. Later on, it established “Hualien Harbor Stallion Station, Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan.” All the production and human resources from animal husbandry in eastern Taiwan were put to breed military horses. After the Retrocession, the government turned the “horse breeding farm” into “livestock breeding farm” to produce staples like swine, cattle, and poultry. In 1976, The Agricultural Research and Extension Station in Hualien District became a part of Taiwan Livestock Research Institute, and officially renamed as Hualien Animal Propagation Station, Taiwan.” Up to now, after several times of reformation, Hualien Animal Propagation Station still manages to feed and breed livestock and poultry and to promote their propagation with its professional knowledge in order to benefit the development of local husbandry.

  這段文字中,有個疑點,為何光復後是將「種馬所」改為「種畜場」,那原本那些牛隻呢?又,「臺灣總督府花蓮港種馬所」又是何時創立的呢?根據清水半平的《吉野村回顧錄》,有段「從騎牛改乘馬」的敘述,原本吉野牧場是以改良品種為目的,從印度引進「幸得」與「印度」兩種牛種,並將其作為耕種、食用兩用牛。昭和九年(1934)某日,總督府把清水半平找去,要求產業組合在此生產軍用馬並給予相關優惠條件。回憶錄中提到馬匹一年生產一頭,數年後全村到處都是馬,每傍晚回家時,來來往往都是馬,有如現代的汽車。後來這些馬在中國中南部戰場非常活躍,軍用馬、運貨用馬都是來是吉野。

  It is confusing that the “horse breeding farm” was changed into “livestock breeding farm.” Then what about the cattle that were originally there? When was Hualien Harbor Stallion Station established? In Hampei Shimizu’s Memoir of Yoshino Village, we can find an account of “from bull riding to horse riding.” The Yoshino Farm was originally for genetic modification. It imported two species of cattle, “Xing De” and “Indian,” from India, so that they could be both edible and suitable for farming. One day in the ninth year of the Shōwa era (1934), the Government of Taiwan talked to Hampei Shimizu and asked the industry group to raise military horses here and provide special offers for him. In the memoir, Hampei Shimizu mentions that each horse bore one foal a year, and after years of breeding, the whole village was full of horses. When people went home in the evening, horses came and went, just like cars in the modern world. Later on, these horses from Yoshino were all very active for military usage and transportation in the war field in southeastern China.

  那牛隻呢?清水半平的回憶錄中則提到昭和十五年、十六年(1940、1941),牛隻就全部供給海軍食用,牧場專門養馬。這就是光復後牧場變成「種馬所」的主要原因吧!

  What about cattle? Hampei Shimizu mentions in the memoir that in the fifteenth and sixteenth years of the Shōwa era (1940, 1941), cattle were all served to the navy as food, and the farm was particularly for horse raising. This is probably the main reason why the farm was transformed into a “horse breeding farm” after the Retrocession.


文字與圖片轉載自郭俊麟,「踏溯吉安」Facebook社團|Texts and pictures are from Chun-lin Kuo’s Facebook club “A Stroll at Ji’an”
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1251508029092820

譯者|Translator:英美語文學系 楊禹婕|Kate Yang, Department of English